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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.